I’ve been going to the Sportsman for years, long before it became a famous foodie haunt. I’d heard rumours about this magic place on the Kentish coast, but have to admit I wasn’t hugely impressed the first time I rocked up. The pub is a ramshackle old building situated on a particularly bleak stretch of rocky beach. But, as it turns out, they’re right – you shouldn’t judge a pub by its paintwork.

 

Once you’re inside, the Sportsman is a pleasant, welcoming space with a traditional bar and various spaces strewn with tables and chairs. My favourite spot is in the whitewashed back room, which is usually flooded with light, whatever the weather.

 

Lunch kicks off with a basket of home-made breads (my favourite is the soda bread, with its hint of dark sugar, although the focaccia comes a very close second), and then we’re into the oysters. Last time we were there (mid-way through February – a great escape from London’s wintry gloom) we had a native oyster each, then a rock oyster with a warm, salty, slightly spicy slice of chorizo, and another with a delicate garnish of pickled cucumber and avruga caviar.

 

The a la carte menu doesn’t change much, but I don’t mind as I only get to the Sportsman once or twice a year. The thornback ray with razor clams, served with brown butter spiked with sherry vinegar (or minor variations on the theme) is a long-time favourite, although I sometimes opt for an unctuous slab of slow-cooked belly pork or a crisp confit leg of duck. Seafood, though, is usually my default, not least because the Sportsman sources its fish straight off the local boats, so the flavour is at its most intense and bright.

 

You don’t really need dessert after all that, but if you can find room then you might enjoy the subtle flavours of a jasmine tea junket with rosehip syrup, or the knockout blow delivered by the rich dark chocolate and salted caramel tart.

 

The Sportsman’s celebrated eight-course tasting menu used only to be available during the week, which puts it beyond the reach of all but locals and holidaymakers. (Mark and I spent a weekend in the area a couple of years ago just so that we could try it out. Believe me when I say it was worth the round trip.) Now, though, an abbreviated version offers five courses every day for the knock-down price of £45. I’d have ordered it this time round if it hadn’t been for the fact that I’d eaten fairly well the previous day (seriously, you’re going to need to starve yourself to do this justice – portion sizes at the Sportsman are generous.)

 

One of the things I’ve always loved about the Sportsman (apart from that lovely sun-filled room and the lavish quantities of robustly flavoured food) is the front-of-house service. Chances are they don’t recognise me – even though Mark and I return on a regular basis – but we’re always greeted with a warm welcome. The waitresses usually coo over Laszlo (our incredibly cute schnauzer, who’s a pro when it comes to milking attention) on the way to our table, then return at regular intervals to check whether we’re enjoying our food (not in a fake way – you really get the feeling they want you to have a great time).

 

For me, the only slightly sour note about the Sportsman is the chalked-up wine list, which is a tad on the predictable side. (Lots of biggish brands, négociant wines and the usual run of Rioja, Sancerre, Pinot Grigio, zzzzz… Sorry, must have dozed off there…) I thought I was the only one who had noticed this (or possibly the only person who minded about it), but last time I was there I ran into a London wine trade friend of mine who was having lunch there too (actually, I ran into two separate wine trade friends last time, and one the time before – see what I mean about the place being a foodie haunt?) She and her partner had sensibly brought a couple of rather nice bottles with them – BYO (even though you pay a corkage fee) is well worth the effort if you want some vinous thrills to match the culinary fireworks.

 

The Sportsman; Faversham Road, Seasalter, Kent CT5 4BP; tel 01227 273370.