I’d planned to write up this wine last week, when I had an excuse to talk about the joys of drinking bracingly fresh white wines on a hot summer’s day. Looking out the window today, though, I realise that I may have mis-timed that particular intro (an object lesson in never putting off until tomorrow what you can do today, perhaps).

Despite the dense white clouds now hanging over London (not to mention the fact that the dog returned from his morning walk dripping rainwater like a super-saturated four-legged sponge), I still maintain that a good Chablis is just the kind of wine I want to be drinking at this time of year.

Let’s have a look at the evidence…

• I don’t want my summer wines to be too high in alcohol –anything much over 13.5% sends me reeling when the temperature spikes. (The exception might be a juicy, rich red with an evening barbecue, but even then I’m unlikely to yearn for a Zinfandel or a Gigondas until we hit autumn, at least.)
• I suspect most of us automatically reach for something crisp and refreshing at this time of year. Not only does alcohol fall out of favour, but high levels of acidity become a positive, mouthwatering bonus.
• Look at the kinds of food we all reach for in summer. Salads, seafood and stir fries, as well as grilled chicken and charcuterie platters. The overall theme is simple, light dishes that don’t require much in the way of preparation (who wants to sweat over a stove when you’re sweating anyway?)

I rest my case. Chablis usually comes in at around 12.5% alcohol (up to around 13% for 1er or Grand Cru wines from warmer, riper sites). Brisk acidity is this wine’s raison d’être. And its bright, citrussy flavours make it a terrific partner for salads (green salads, tomato salads, salads made with pasta or rice) as well as most kinds of seafood (with the possible exception of salmon or tuna, which need something a bit weightier than your average Chablis). Chablis can also cope well with white meats and porky charcuterie.

Which brings me to this week’s wine recommendation. Domaine Droin‘s Mont de Milieu 2013 shows all the elegance and finesse that you’d expect from a 1er Cru Chablis. It’s still very young, and this shows in its taut, steely reserve – in short, it’s the kind of Chablis you’ll like if you favour purity and focus. The fruit aromas are subtle but present, and will acquire richness and power over time – should you be able to restrain yourself from drinking it now. There are hints of citrus fruit and white blossom, as well as a lovely smoky minerality. Incisive and precise, this is a perfect summer wine – especially if you can hang on until summer 2018.

My rating: At least , although if you think you’re going to be tempted to open a bottle within the next year or two, you might want to think about .  (What does this mean? See here for a guide to my rating system.)